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‘O Mercado’ was the talk of the town last week. The São Paulo food fair, bringing together 13 chefs for a late night cook up, was all over the internet, on the cover of Folha’s Comida supplement on Wednesday, in Estadão’s Paladar on Thursday, on almost every major web portal, and on everyone’s lips. The build up was extraordinary. And the excitement on the night was even more crazed.
I arrived just before midnight to join hoardes headed in the direction of Galeria Vermelho (whose courtyard, with its 150-people capacity, was playing host to the event). The queue was backed up from the gallery to the Frutaria on the square, snaking round the corner and on down the hill for at least half a kilometre. There were thousands of people queueing. And thousands more came over the course of the night – and promptly left after one look at the enormous line. …
